Vehicle Technology

Default rule: something feels wrong → don't fix it yourself, go to a workshop. Self-fixable: bulbs, fuses, fluid top-ups, tyre pressure. Everything else, get it checked.

• Steering hard to turn → steering gear or power steering fault
• Steering wobbles, esp. on acceleration/braking → worn shocks or suspension damage
• Pulls to one side while braking → brake system fault, workshop immediately
• Pulls to one side normally → check wheel alignment or tyre pressure first
• Pedal sinks to the floor, only firms up after pumping → air in the brake system, don't drive further
• Exhaust suddenly very loud → broken/corroded exhaust, repair immediately (parts can fall off)
• Brake/tail light out → usually just a bulb or fuse, self-fixable
• Indicator blinks faster than normal → bulb blown on that side
• Oil pressure warning stays on → stop the engine immediately, check oil level
• Coolant temperature warning → stop safely as soon as possible, switch off
• ESP / airbag light on → workshop
• Seatbelt won't lock / retract → don't use that seat until fixed

Engine oil prevents wear, cools, and cleans — check with the dipstick, only use the manufacturer-specified grade.

Oil code e.g. 10W-40: the number before W = cold-start performance, the number after = high-temperature viscosity.

Coolant/antifreeze protects against both frost and corrosion — it's needed year-round, not just winter.

Brake fluid is changed on schedule because it's hygroscopic — it absorbs water from the air, which lowers its boiling point and makes the pedal spongy. It isn't changed because it "wears out."

Diesel struggling to start in winter → summer-grade diesel left in the tank; paraffin crystals (flocculation) clog the fuel filter. Always use winter-grade diesel in cold weather.

• Min tread depth: 1.6 mm for cars & motorbikes >125cc; 1 mm for mopeds
• TWI markers show when tread has worn to the replacement point
• Always check pressure cold (before driving)
• Date code e.g. 1217 = week 12 of 2017
• Too low pressure → edge wear, more fuel use, overheating/blowout risk
• Too high pressure → centre wear, reduced grip (less contact area)
• Winter tyres: look for the snowflake symbol (not just M+S); mind the tyre's speed rating
• "RETREAD" must be marked on retreaded tyres by law
• Re-torque wheel nuts after a wheel change; check spare wheel double-locks
• Visual check before long trips; check after hitting a kerb hard

ABS keeps you able to steer during hard braking — it does not mean you can brake later or more carelessly.

Standard cruise control just holds your speed — you must brake/disengage yourself. Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) uses radar to manage following distance and brakes automatically.

Neither standard nor adaptive cruise control slows down for an upcoming bend — the driver must always be ready to intervene manually.

Emergency Brake Assist boosts your braking force when you press the pedal in an emergency but not hard enough — it's a safety net, not a substitute for proper braking, and won't engage unless you brake first.

• Pre-drive visual check: lights, tyres, mirrors
• Pre-winter check: antifreeze level, winter tyres, battery condition
• Battery upkeep = keep terminals clean and tight (not acid replacement — that's workshop work)
• Dirty air filter → more fuel use, less power
• Scheduled inspections (TÜV etc.) verify roadworthiness regularly, visible problem or not